Repair Your Gas Grill or Replace It?

Are you trying to decide if you should repair your gas grill or replace it all together?

As a grill part guru, I tend to lean toward replacing everything in your grill as long as possible. This keeps the grill you love in your backyard and out of a landfill.

However, there are times when even the best grill needs the ol’ heave-ho. (If you have to replace your beloved grill, do it a favor and get something worthy to fill the empty spot on your patio)

Here are a few things to keep in mind.

**If you open the hood of your grill and it looks gross, REPAIR!! (or even, just clean!)

**If your cooking grids, heat plates, or burners are rusted, REPAIR!

**Knobs, ignition parts, regulators, handles are all easy fixes: REPAIR!

**If your valve system is bent or broken, you will need to find a replacement valve to REPAIR your grill. However, sometimes valves are no longer available. You cannot use the wrong valve for your grill, so I recommend at that point: REPLACE.

**Major damage to the main body of your grill requires you to REPLACE it. This includes the hood of your grill.

**If you have a grill mounted in the ground with a post that requires a new post, REPAIR!! You can buy a new post and save your grill!

Checklist if you should repair your gas grill or replace it

 

If you have any specific questions, feel free to leave me a comment and I’ll answer as quickly as possible!

You can also call 678-272-2451 for friendly help to repair your gas grill and all things grills!

-GG

(Is it warm yet!? Gracious!!)

What Do I Need to Know About Gas Grill Regulators?

What are gas grill regulators and do you need to replace yours?

The term “regulator” is usually used in the grill world to describe the gas grill regulators, hoses and fittings that bring gas from your LP tank and connects it to your grill.

Standard Single-Hosed Gas Grill Regulators

Technically, the regulator is the silver colored disc part that looks like this:
Gas Grill Regulators

The hose connects it to the brass fitting which is the part that screws onto your grill. Right next to the regulator is a collar that twists freely. That’s the part that screws onto the LP tank. Though you should always turn off your LP tank when you’re done cooking or when you’re changing the regulator, LP tanks are made with an automatic shut off valve. It will only work when a regulator hose is connected to it.

How do you know when it’s time to replace your regulator?

As I mentioned, the regulator brings gas to your grill burners. Here are some indicators you need a new gas grill regulator

  • Low heat coming from your burners when your gas is turned on high. Do a visual check on your burners to make sure they are all in one piece and there are no obvious holes or problems.
  • Your burners light up unevenly. For example, if the burner on the far right flickers or hardly lights, the middle burner has low flame, and the left burner has a normal looking flame.
  • Over time your grill gets less and less hot. Last week it took 10 minutes to grill some burgers, but today it took 15 to grill the same burgers.

WHY? Regulators, for safety reasons, close down slowly over time as they “go bad.” You probably won’t notice one day your grill is perfect and the next it doesn’t light at all. The burner closest to the source of gas will light up better than those farther down the manifold. Your grill will get to lower and lower temperatures over time, even on “high” heat. The main indicator of needing a new regulator is low heat or low flames, especially if it’s getting worse over time.

What else could go wrong?

Keep in mind that you may also have a problem running along the hose. Be aware of the smell of gas even when your grill is off or a tiny hissing sound.

Some animals like to chew on the sun-baked rubber hoses. (Don’t knock it ’til you try it?) If this is a problem for you, they have invented handy-dandy hose guards. Check them out.

If you think there’s a leak, but you’re not sure, you can check the hose with some very soapy water. Rub the suds all the way along the line of the hose. Turn on the gas tank. If there is gas escaping, it will cause the soapy water to bubble at the point of the leak.

What are the differences in gas grill regulators?

A single-hosed, standard regulator is the most commonly used part on grills. It’s the picture I used above. These regulators let out up to 60,000 BTUs of gas.

If you have a side burner, check out this¬†dual-hosed standard regulator. There is one regulator (remember that’s the disc) and there are two separate hoses. Sometimes one hose comes off the regulator and splits into two hoses, forming a Y shape, and sometimes there are two hoses coming directly out of the regulator itself. Either will work and they are interchangeable.

Updated June 2021: Many of our gas grill regulators now support high-flow needs (let out up to 90,000 BTUs of gas). These are compatible with grills that originally used a standard flow. However, please note that your high setting might give you more heat than before. Pay attention the first time you grill with a new regulator and take note of the cook temps!

How do you know?

Usually, the removal and visual inspection of your regulator determines which replacement you need. It’s also a good idea to measure the existing hose and/or the space a hose needs to stretch to reach from the tank to the valve or manifold. If you’re not sure, call 678-272-2451. The staff at GrillPartsSearch.com is always happy to help.

Special Cases

Keep in mind, a standard regulator and hose will not work if you have:

  • Natural gas grill (NG)
  • A crimped hose onto the valve or manifold in your grill. You will know because you won’t be able to unscrew the hose from your grill. In this case, you need to contact your manufacturer to replace the entire valve system.
  • Male fitting on the end of the hose that connects to the grill.
  • Hose fitting larger or smaller than a 3/8″ flare, which translates to about a 5/8″ inner diameter measurement of the opening at the end of the fitting.

Here’s a picture of the fitting:

Gas Grill Regulators Female Flare Fitting
You can’t measure the 3/8.” It’s confusing, I know. Like I said, check for a 5/8″ measurement.

The good news is that this can be the easiest, cheapest part of your grill to fix!

Remember, not all regulators are created equal. Lower quality rubber will degrade and break more easily in the sun. A lower quality regulator can go bad more quickly.

(This theme came from our FAQs. Let me know if you have a question in our comments section and I can answer it there or even write a blog for you!!)

Spring is coming!!!
-GG

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What’s a Gas Grill Model Number?

THIS gas grill model number ARTICLE WAS UPDATE JUNE 2021.

When you look online for replacement parts, or call the friendly sales rep at GrillPartsSearch.com, the first thing you’ll need is your gas grill model number. Having been that friendly rep, I can tell you that if you don’t know what a model number is or where to find it, that makes you and about a million other people.

In other words, you are not alone.

First, let’s define “model number.” It’s the number or letters, or combination of the two, given to the exact style of your grill. This means there may be hundreds or thousands of the same model grill made and sold. This is the reason replacement companies use model numbers to sell parts. All the grill of the same model will use the same parts. Usually, there is a certain way each manufacturer uses a model number. The manufacturer Nexgrill has seven digit numbers that start with a 7 and are written like this: 720-0061, while Brinkmann starts with an 8 and look like this: 810-2700. Charbroil also uses all numbers but always starts with a 4 and is nine digits long – 463240904.

Now, buckle up because it doesn’t get more simple from here. There are also a lot of manufacturers that use letters in their model numbers as well. A very common one is Member’s Mark. Their model numbers look like this: Y0202XC.

That’s basically how model numbers are structured. Every manufacturer uses a different system so they always know exactly which grills are theirs.

Do you see a LP or an NG hanging off the end of your model number? Nothing to worry about, that just denotes the kind of gas your grill uses. LP stands for Liquid Propane while NG means Natural Gas. Sometimes the LP or NG is a part of the model, sometimes not.

So, how do you find this model number? That’s a little trickier.

  • First, try looking on your original owner’s manual. Usually the model number will be listed on the bottom of each page.
    (I know some of you are looking at the screen in disbelief at the idea you’d still have that old grill manual. Ok, read on)
  • Some grills have small metal plates or labels with certification information on them, including your model number. These plates are usually on the back of each grill.
  • Can’t find it on the back of the grill? Did you look down really low? Try inside the door, on the side of the control panel, under the control panel.

You found a serial number!? Yahoo!!! That’s not the same as a model number and no one lists parts using serial numbers. Sorry. Keep looking.

Still nothing? Or you found it but can’t read it? Well, that’s alright. You don’t have to dump your grill yet. Just measure the parts you need to replace and call 678-272-2451.

Someone will help you.

Stay tuned for tips to get accurate measurements and therefore, THE RIGHT PARTS!!

Toodles. -GG