Nexgrill Grillmaster Before & After

Grill Girl Here! Today we have a special post inspired by one of our customers!

He purchased a Grill Master  grill made by Nexgrill off a craigslist ad for just $30! It needed almost all new parts and so he came to us. He purchased brand new burners, heat plates, and cooking grids and is cooking with an essentially new system! That is an awesome way to save some money and get a great grill on your back porch – not to mention the fact he kept this grill out of a land fill.

Burners, heat plates, cooking grids   Used Grill Master Burners Heat Plates Cooking Grids Nexgrill

In the pictures above you can see the old parts. There are rusted burners, heat plates and the old cooking grids. One of the burners had a big hole in it, so our customer decided to replace all three at the same time. You can also see that the heat plates were very rusty and the holes were starting to get bigger. These heat plates probably weren’t protecting the burners very well. Whenever one of our customers buys a used grill, I always suggest getting a brand new cooking grid. Who wants to cook on top of someone else’s old food? Yuck.

Grillmaster by Nexgrill Tube Burner BMGKTB1  Grillmaster by Nexgrill Heat plate GMNGHP1

Here are the new burners and heat plates. Don’t they look so great? Both of these parts are stainless steel and when they heat up for the first time, they will get some discoloration from the heat. Still, the both parts are an exact fit, plus the heat plates are fully stainless instead of the original porcelain coated steel plates that were in the grill. This is an example of how you really can upgrade your grill by purchasing new parts from us!

Grillmaster by Nexgrill new parts fixed

Here is the final shot of the grill before it was used for the first time. Lookin’ Good!

Congratulations on your rebuilt grill! We love helping customers do projects like this. Thanks for sending us the pics!

-GrillGirl

July Fourth Gas Grill Checklist

Grilling the Fourth

Are you grilling on a gas grill for the Fourth of July this weekend? Do this checklist TODAY:
1 – Remove and inspect the cooking grids and heat shields. Excessive rust or holes in these parts warrants replacing them!

Rust on the surface of your cooking grids, the area where you place your food, is gross at best. If you have a lot of rust or deterioration, get a new set! It’s amazing how a new cooking surface can affect your grilled food. Additionally, holes or excessive rust on the heat plates (heat shields, vap-o-riser bars, flavorizer bars, etc) can impact how the heat in your grill cooks your food. If you want an evenly heated grill, you need to have this system in good working order!

2 – Check the level of propane in your tank. Nothing dampens a party like running out of fuel.

You know you don’t want to have to leave your party to search for a new gas tank so you can finish cooking everyone’s food! If you have your grill hooked up to natural gas, of course this doesn’t apply to you. It’s easy to check the level of gas in your LP tank. Get some warm water and pour it over one side of the tank. The fuel inside will absorb the heat from the water, so when you run your hand down the side of the tank, it will feel warm and then cool. Wherever the tank starts feeling cool, that’s where your fuel level is. If it’s close to the bottom, go ahead and pick up an extra tank before your party!

3  – Before you put the other parts back in, visually inspect your burners (without removing them). Light them up using your ignition system. Are they burning evenly? Is the flame blue at the base?

You’ll want to make sure you don’t have any large holes or ares of flame coming out of your burners. If that is apparent, it is definitely time to replace the gas burners. More commonly, you will notice low areas of flame. If a visual inspection does not reveal any damage to the burners themselves, you may need to replace the regulator and hose that bring gas from the liquid propane tank to your grill. The regulator usually closes down over time so you will notice your grill heating up less and less. The good news is it’s an easy fix and definitely something we can get to you in a few days!

 

And if you have any questions at all, give us a call! We want to make sure your party is a success (but there is very little we can do the day before to help).
877-244-0737

Happy Fourth! -Grill Girl

It’s Warm(ER)! Go Grill Something!

Hello fellow grill fanatics and welcome to the first warm breath of air in 2015! Was this weekend not beautiful!?

Gas Grill Outside Spring

I cannot wait to get our grill back into working order for the Spring and Summer seasons! Did you know that right now is the best time to pull out your grill and check it for working parts?

Keep the grill you love in your backyard and out of the landfill this year by replacing the old parts instead of the whole grill! You will save money and, in many cases, end up with a grill that works better than ever!

Here’s your checklist for Grill Spring Cleaning:

  1. Remove cover (carefully) and make sure there are no bugs who used it as their cover over the winter! Don’t have a cover for your grill? You should definitely get one! Covering your grill will help it cook better for longer!
  2. Look on the back of the grill for a model number. This will help immensely as you look for replacement parts on the internet.
  3. Take the cooking grids off your grill and inspect them. Your grid could be cast iron, steel bar, or stainless steel and coated in a variety of things. It might be hard to determine any of that if you have rusting or other corrosion. Clean the grids with a Brass Bristled Brush. If you notice a large amount of rusting or any breakage, put them on your list to replace!
  4. Under the grids you’ll see some system that covers the actual flame of the grill burners. This could be metal heat plates, shields, angles, or another grate that holds briquettes. Drippings and the heat of normal grilling will cause these to discolor and corrode. Since your food doesn’t go on these directly, you don’t need to worry about rust. However, if your heat plates have large holes, are breaking or if your grates don’t hold up the briquettes, it’s time to replace those as well.
  5. Remove the heat plates or briquettes and you should be looking down on the burner system in your grill.  With the hood open, light your grill. The burners should each light up and produce a consistent blue flame all along the outside of the burner. If you have any extra large flames, yellow flames, or burners that don’t light fully, you should may need to replace the burners. Any large holes or major corrosion is cause to replace these pieces. If the burners look great, but you’re not getting enough flame, it could be your gas source, valve or regulator.

Gas grill Burner Blue Flames

Call our customer service to help you today! If you can’t find your gas grill model number, measure the parts you need to replace. Our phone number is 877-244-0737.

 

And as always – Happy Grilling! –GG

Is That a Set?

Quote

One of our most frequently asked questions is whether we sell products in sets or individually. Most of our products we sell individually. You can always look at the picture though, if you’re not sure. If there’s one in the picture, they are sold individually. If there’s more than one in the picture, it’s a set.

Here’s one of our sales reps, Cadarius, on the how he explains it to customers:

Customer: I’m looking to buy some heat plates for my grill. Is the price on your website for a package of 3?
Cadarius: The price on our website is per piece, we sell those heat plates individually.
Customer: Well that’s a little much for one.
Cadarius: The price of our products might be a little higher than the prices you see from competitors or on Amazon. The reason is because the majority of our heat plates are stainless steel and made is the USA. This means they will last longer and perform better than the porcelain coated heat plates or lower quality steel plates you might find elsewhere.

quality, parts, grill parts

The main take-away here? You get what you pay for – and also, you get what’s pictured.

As always, if you have any questions, just call!!

-GG

How to Replace the Carry Over Tubes – with video


Hey Y’all, it’s the Grill Girl!

Today, we’re going to be replacing the carryover tubes on a Charbroil 463268606.

I’ve already removed all the grill parts except for the burners and carryover tubes. Unfortunately, you’ll see this carryover tube has already removed itself.

So, these are the carryover tubes, and as I already said, this one is missing. This piece has completely rusted out and it just fell right to the bottom of the grill.

The purpose of a carryover tube is to carry the lit gas from one burner to the next. so, when you turn this burner on and light it, then the lit gas will go into the next burner and light it.

It’s really just something to make it easier to grill – you don’t even have to have it to grill. You can light each burner separately.

However, we do sell the replacement for this grill.

You will need to use your own screws, but even if the screw is not completely tight, it will serve the purpose of holding the part in place.

You can see when I turn on this burner, it brings the flame right over – so, it works!

Thanks for watching!!

-GG

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How Do I Measure the Burner for a Replacement? (with video)

Hey Y’all!! Grill Girl here! Time for another helpful video. Today we’re talking about correctly measuring your burner so you can find the right replacement.

It’s time to replace your burner when the holes are clogged up, the metal is flaking apart, or you can see a hole in your burner. You may notice uneven flames or a big hot spot when you’re grilling.

Measuring your burner:

** Remove the burner from your grill before measuring

** Measure the entire length of the burner piece from front to back.

** If your burner is not linear, also measure the width at the widest spot.

That’s what you need to know to get the correct replacement for your grill! If your burner is in pieces or is a very confusing shape, give us a call!!

As always, we’re happy to help!!

Go get your grill ready!! Grill something this weekend!

-GG

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Repair or Replace?

As a grill part guru, I tend to lean toward replacing everything in your grill as long as possible. This keeps the grill you love in your backyard and out of a landfill.

However, there are times when even the best grill needs the ol’ heave-ho. (If you have to replace your beloved grill, do it a favor and get something worthy to fill the empty spot on your patio)

Here are a few things to keep in mind.

**If you open the hood of your grill and it looks gross, REPAIR!! (or even, just clean!)

**If your cooking grids, heat plates, or burners are rusted, REPAIR!

**Knobs, ignition parts, regulators, handles are all easy fixes: REPAIR!

**If your valve system is bent or broken, you will need to find a replacement valve to REPAIR your grill. However, sometimes valves are no longer available. You cannot use the wrong valve for your grill, so I recommend at that point REPLACE.

**Major damage to the main body of your grill requires you to REPLACE it. This includes the hood of your grill.

**If you have a grill mounted in the ground with a post that requires a new post, REPAIR!! You can buy a new post and save your grill!

So You Lit Your Grill On Fire

 

If you have any specific questions, feel free to leave me a comment and I’ll answer as quickly as possible!

You can also call 877-244-0737 for friendly advice on all things grills!

-GG

(Is it warm yet!? Gracious!!)

The Burner

Once I had this conversation with a customer:

Customer: “Hi I need something but I don’t know what it’s called. It’s a long tube where the fire come out?”
Me: “Oh, yes! The burner?”
Customer: “Um, hmm, no. It’s not the burner. It’s this long tube with holes in it and it’s where the fires comes out to cook the food…Well maybe that’s the burner, I don’t know.”

Let me assure you all.

Yes.

That is the burner.

Our customer described it pretty well. Not all burners are tubes, but all burner have holes where fire comes out to cook your food. There are many different styles of burners. Grill manufacturers often use this part of the grill to differentiate themselves from other grills. Some of the most common styles of burner are H, oval, tube, rail.

Burners can be made out of stainless steel, steel, cast iron, brass and even have ceramic elements.

If you don’t have a model number for your grill (see previous post), you can use your original burner to find the correct replacement. You will, however, need to take the burner out of your grill to get the best measurement. You’ll need to be able to describe what the shape of your burner is and the dimensions of it.

Burner Types

So, just remember, it’s the thing in your grill where the fire comes out. THAT’S the burner.

Happy grilling!!

-GG

How Do I Replace My Rail Style Burner? – with video

Hey Y’all!! Grill Girl here! Today, we’re going to be changing the burners on a Brinkmann Pro Series 2400.

This how-to video will relate to any brand of grill that uses cast iron rail-type burners, like the one in this photo:

Grill with Rail-Style Burners
Grill with Rail-Style Burners
  • The first step to replacing your old grill burners is to remove the cooking grids and heat plates covering your burners. Once you have done that, your grill should look similar to the one in the above photo.
  • Remove the hitch pin from the burner bracket to loosen the burner itself.
    **The hitch pin connects the burner to the burner bracket to holds it in place. It feeds through a little knot on the underside of the burner. The easiest way to remove it is by using needle nose pliers.
  • Now the burner is free at the back end, but still connected through the steel plates in the front of your grill.
    **In the case of rail-type burners, the burner is not attached to the valve, it simply fits over the valve. The valve system is right behind your knobs on the front of your grill, so if you want to make sure there’s nothing else connected to your burner, you can kneel down and look under the knobs and face plate of your grill. You’ll see the burner fit over the valve.
  • Once nothing is holding onto your burner, lift up the back end and pull!!!
    **It’s okay to use a little force. I had to!! This is a gas grill we’re talking about here, not a china cabinet.

**IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHICH RAIL STYLE BURNER YOU NEED AS A REPLACEMENT, YOU CAN MEASURE IT – NOW THAT YOUR OLD BURNER IS REMOVED, YOU CAN MEASURE THE ENTIRE LENGTH AND WIDTH OF IT.**

  • With your brand new burner in hand, slide the venturi, or tube-looking, end back over the valve at the front side of your grill.
    **Make sure to guide the tube over the valve of your grill. You may have to kneel down again to make sure it fits over properly. This is how the gas gets into your burner.
  • Rest the back end of the burner on the bracket and put the nub into place.
    **There should be a little hole on the bracket where it fits in.
  • Place the new hitch pin into the nub under the bracket to hold the burner securely in place.

That’s all there is to it, folks!! Again, this tutorial will work for any rail-style burner, but for those of you who want specifics here they are, all linked up if you need parts:

The grill in the video: Brinkmann Pro Series 2400, model number 810-2400-0.
Other models that use three of the exact same burner are:810-2235-0,810-2200-0,810-2210-0,810-2210-1,810-2250-0,810-2250-1,810-2250-2,810-2300-0,810-2300-B,810-2310-0,810-2310-1,810-2320-B,810-2400-2,810-4345-0,810-6305-T,810-6355-T.
The parts used in this video were the burner CITL, and the burner bracket 600-2323-0, and were provided courtesy of GrillPartsSearch.com.

You can do it!!! -GG

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What’s the Deal with Stainless Steel?


There’s a lot of disappointment floating around when it comes to one material currently on the market: stainless steel.

The two main issues are:
1) Why does my “stainless steel” rust?
2) Why is my “stainless steel” magnetic?

I put stainless steel in quotation marks because that’s how most people would phrase the questions. If either of the two above things were accurate, our customers would believe their item must not be stainless steel…

Right?

No, actually that’s not correct. There are different grades of stainless steel and they all act differently when introduced to either heat or water. In our grilling cases, that would be BOTH!!!

To clear it up, the General Manager at GrillPartsSearch.com has written up a guest blog explanation.

Take it away Will!!!

There are two general series of stainless steel grades used in the gas grill industry: 300 series and 400 series.

The 300 series group of alloys are non-magnetic and the basic 300 alloy contains 18% chromium and 8% nickel.
The 400 Series group of alloys are magnetic and the basic 400 alloy contains 11% chromium and 1% manganese. This series offers a much lower cost option in stainless steel parts.
-The 300 series is subject to corrosion at crevice points, while the 400 series has a considerably lower resistance to corrosion in general.

Knowing that, we choose the parts we sell to our customers very carefully! We try to gain as much information as possible about the grades of stainless steel we offer our customers so we can help them know what to expect from the parts they purchase.

Here’s how that information translates in grilling terms:

Cooking grids are exposed to more liquids and less heat, compared to other parts in a grill. We do make some cooking grids (product code: CG63SS) with 316 stainless because of that fact. In the case of cooking grids, the extra expense of the 300 series can be worth it. 300 series stainless is less prone to rust but the less than ideal conditions inside a grill will definitely degrade even the highest quality stainless steel. 304 is the most common type of stainless steel in the world, while 316 is generally the highest grade stainless you will find in ordinary applications, and both will degrade in a grill.

As for burners and heat plates, they certainly are exposed to moisture but are exposed to much more heat. Heat is just as much of an enemy to steel, if not more so, as moisture and oxygen. Heating and cooling are used in the production of metals to actually change the chemical/molecular bonds and subsequent performance of the metal. It is no different inside your grill. While 300 series stainless will technically last longer than a 400 series plate of equal thickness, the benefit is only marginal. That marginal benefit compared to the substantial increase in cost doesn’t really pay off. We have found by spending a little more to make the plate out of a thicker 400 series stainless, you gain close to the same amount of life you would get out of a 300 series product at a fraction of the cost.

If you ever have any other questions about stainless steel or the applications of such in your grill, we’d love to help!
Just give us a call!!

Thanks so much Will!!!

That’s all for now, and don’t forget to ask questions for me, the Grill Girl!!!

Happy Friday!

-GG

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